BERGHIA NET

It is very important to get your delicate Berghia nudibranches into your reef system without injuring their foot. With this in mind, please read all of this instruction.

Some information about your Berghia: Even though these animals are small by comparison to other animals we see for reef tanks, many are carrying real nice egg coils inside and some may lay those in your tank soon after you get them. They develop egg ribbons every 2 to 3 days at this age. Egg ribbons may not be seen because these are very reculsive animals, living on the underside of rocks and their camo is often so good, they can be hard to see when out and about. We've proven Berghia are successful at controlling Aiptasia sp. anemones over and over in numerous tanks and it is our goal with this site to provide you with the information to help insure this goal is met in your system. Following the instructions on this web site will help you achieve success with them in your system.

Berghia Sensitivities: A stabile marine tank system that has completely cycled and stabilized is a good tank for Berghia. New systems must be allowed to cycle completely and stablize prior to adding Berghia. Berghia are amoung the more delicate and somewhat sensitive animals you will keep in your reef system. Once they are acclimated and properly inserted into your reef, they are very resilent and even somewhat forgiving of many mistakes. Water quality must be maintained in very good and reasonably stable condition. Ammonia content should measure 0 and should be maintained at 0 in a stable tank. A good growth of coraline algae indicates system stability. If you experience seasonal die offs or brief ammonia or nitrate spikes in your system, serious fish diseases, have used medications or flat worm treatments, these should be corrected prior to adding Berghia. Berghia also can not tolerate acclimation under your system lighting as they have proven to be sensitive to infared and ultraviolet radiation when contained in the little shipping bags. Floating and acclimation with lights on may kill your Berghia. When cleaning lights, equipment and reflectors, it is important to clean salt spray and salt bridges off and NOT wash or drop it back into the tank. Small traces of aluminun and cadmium ions that could be contained in the salt spray crystals can be harmful to delicate life in a coral reef tank. Like corals, invertibrates and some fish, Berghia may be sensitive to over doses of kalkwasswer or over doses of some additives. Dosing in moderation is best if additives are used. You must also have enough Berghia to fit the task in your tank. Algorythms and predators are discussed on this site to help. Our Berghia are tested and proven effective Aiptasia anemone hunters prior to shipping.

The Trouble with Syringes and Pump Parts: The trouble with the syringe method and injecting Aiptasia is that it does not ever kill the basal cells nor the spawn gametes. The basal cells split off when the Aiptasia is injected and then there is a dozen more Aiptasia from the basal cells to take that one's place that got the injection. Sometimes as many as half of those basal cells let go and populate other areas of your tank and you can not see them for some time, sometimes for almost a year. They take hold, get rooted in a little hole where they are safe and start to grow. They go unnoticed completely until all of a sudden there is an aiptasia bloom in the tank. Happens many times, so, if you are thinking about getting Berghia for a tank that is not out of control yet and the current method of control is by injection, then by all means get some Berghia going on that tank while they are still under control. If it is a nano tank, more than likely, after a month or so in a nano you will see the Berhia again and can capture them to move them to another tank if they have completed their job. Aiptasia also spawn under extreme stress conditions and under good water quality conditions and those cells go unnoticed for as much as a year at times. If conditions are right, they too can explode overnight into a mess. More than likely why some people have difficulty getting rid of Aiptasia in their main reef. Some information about that is in the scientific notes on our site in "Learn About Aiptasia To Kill Them". Basically aiptasia anemones and cells are a super-life and all others not nearly as prolific as they are. Aiptasia cells that lay dormant can out last a Berghia attack too and those dormant cells buried in the rocks could return at some later date. A total pain for reef keepers until the entire situation is brought under control. What we hope for is the introduction of Berghia at the correct time to get all of the mess cleaned up, but, those little tiny cells can be a problem if they are buried in a place or crack where Berghia don't go or can't get to for some reason. Power head casings where the seams and brackets are and tubing are places where Aiptasia cells can hide so regular complete cleaning of those and all pump parts will help eliminate that spot and keep the Aiptasia cells from repopulating your tank. A way to innoculate your tank with new aiptasia is to get some macro from a supplier or local reefer who has no idea there are aiptasia cells buried in the middle of the macro. Then you start all over again. Due to the prolific nature of Aiptasia cells and their ability to lay dormant, it could be necessary to add Berghia to a tank more than once. Each time a tank is reinnoculated, Berghia may be needed again if the original colony is not still present. If available, quarenteen tanks, even for macro algaes, help prevent new Aiptasia from getting into the display tank. Even when the best hygiene is practiced, due to the dynamics of life in the reef and the ability of Aiptasia to survive, it is possible additional applications of Berghia will be required to complete the solution. Berghia, when acclimated and applied with care, thought and patience, will control Aiptasia.

Your Berghia Shipment: Our Berghia nudibranch sea slugs are shipped in an ultra high grade clean saltwater at salinity of about 30.0ppt (sg 1.023 +/-1). The nudibranch is easy to acclimate to your reef however you should acclimate carefully. The young adult nudibranches are normally 12mm to a slight bit more (approximately 1/2 inch little slugs) when they are caught from the system for you. Actually they could be more than 1/2 inch but they expand and contract greatly during the day so size is difficult to observe accurately. Much of their bodies are very similar to their prey as they are only a couple of cells thick and like little bags of water. Not considering their Cerata, their bodies expand and contract, very similar to a worm in diameter and appearance. This ability makes it possible for them to escape injury by fast moving invertebrates and to get in where the Aiptasia are rooted to remove all pieces of the Aiptasia's basal cells preventing reinfestation. In addition to their bodies, many develop long thread-like tails to help secure them to the rocks in swift currents. They are selected when actively hunting as this is the only time when true size can be measured. They expell water when shipped and will curl up tight appearing extremely tiny in the bags. They are guarenteed healthy and will reinflate back to their true size over the next 24 hours. The bag is sealed for safety and transporting.

• Important: Turn lights OFF in tank you select to float bags in. (Powerful reef tank or refugium lights will quickly overheat the little bags and toast the Berghia to death.)
• Float the bag to bring it to temperature in your reef, sump or refugium.
• Then cut the top of the bag off.
• Pour a little water from your tank in the bag, wait 5 minutes, then pour in a little more. Repeat until the bag is full, empty the bag and fill again with small amounts each time.
• Do this 3x before preparing to put them into the tank. If you drip acclimate, be careful to drip slowly enough. This should take from 1 to 2 hours. They are normally easy to acclimate and you will have no trouble keeping them at home reef tank salinity (approx. between 1.022 and 1.025, dKh 7.5 to 8.5, pH 7.9 to 8.2). They can go more or less providing you double the acclimation time.
• They should not be touched with your bare hands as they can be easily damaged and may not fare well if they are touched.
• Shut ALL power heads off while you insert them into your reef!
• DO NOT JUST DROP THEM INTO YOUR TANK!
• A special Transfer Pipet is included or you can use the spoon method below.
• Read these instructions all the way through and plan ahead so this is enjoyable and to prevent injury to the Berghia.
• Consider keeping them in a clean, vented, small disposable food storage container, specimen container or jar, away from hot lights (so they don't get cooked), clipped to the lip of the refugium or tank, until late evening time, after wrasses have gone to sleep in the sand. Berghia are naturally nocturnal and will be more active after sunset. It is not necesary, but, when possible, evening time is a good time to introduce them into your system.
• Select a clean, sheltered location, under a coral and near a group of Aiptasia, high on your reef to start the colony. High places are far away from detrivore nests and high rocks are excellent choices to start a new Berghia colony. Bristle worm nests or other detrivore nests may be found in or under low rocks or rocks coated in sediment. A bottom rock can be a detrivore nesting area or Bristle Worm nesting area. These kinds of bottom rocks can be very danagerous and may be hazardous to the nudibranch because the worms are very aggressive in their nesting area. These low rocks or some rocks directly on the sand bed can be poor locations to place delicate, sensitive new additions into the reef environment and this includes the Berghia. Large aggressive colonies of hungry Bristle Worms will consume nudibranch egg ribbons. Even though they are not direct Berghia predators, some will feel they are because of this opportunistic, competative behavior near the worm nest. All of these potential situations can be avoided by simply placing your Berghia colony up high toward the top in the reef.
• Please read this entire web site. Correct information about using Berghia is important to ensure success in your tank. Even in tanks that are over run with Aiptasia, our Berghia verruccicornis (Aeolidiella stephanieae) will take care of your Aiptasia issue when correctly applied to the situation.

When They Arrive: When they first arrive and the specially selected or made packaging is taken out of the little box, the first thing will be the reaction that these redefine the word "small". Then think about the importance of this investment to your highly prized reef. The first ones for us cost twice as much as what we sell them for here. We would actually have paid more just to get them becaues we knew they would work and our first tank was worth it. All things considered, its worth taking the time to acclimate them and insert them into the reef without injuring them. Berghia are very small bodied animals and with water expelled during shipping will appear even smaller than normal. Occassionally healthy Berghia may appear to "float" because they are so light they can crawl on the underside of the water surface tension. These Berghia are well fed and well fed Berghia at this age like to mate. If the bag is a Trio-Pak, you may only see what appears to be 2 little tiny rolled up fuzz balls in the bag. Rock the bag before unrolling the top to be sure one is not caught in the upper corners of the bag. Since they like to mate, they are often mating in the bag and 2 can look like 1. Observe them for a while, they are all in the bag. If they are fully engaged in mating, do not try to force them apart or damage can occur. Allow them to work it out on their own. The Trio-Pak bags are special bags that can stand on their own and not trap the Berghia in the corners. They are small and partially masked, so please be prepared to handle a small bag with a small opening that is slightly difficult to see into. Other bags are specially made and modified here to keep the Berghia healthy during shipping. One may be included with your order for easier float acclimating if you tell us ahead of time. In that case, rock the Trio-Pak to dislodge the Berghia, unroll the top, cut the top off and gently dump the Berghia into the optional float acclimation bag. We use smaller sized disposable food containers and small clear totes to move them here and this may work better than a bag in some cases. Please choose the bag or container style that works best for you to acclimate and handle your Berghia. Trio-Paks can be kept in their original bag for the entire process if handling a small bag that will stand up on its own like a cup will work for you. Group and lot orders may be packed in all clear bags that are specially modified here to maintain the Berghia in good health. Either way they are not giant fish bags to keep shipping costs down but the main reason is to provide a secure healthy package that serves the Berghia needs best. Our Berghia survived a shipping accident in 2005 and were returned alive to us after 7 days in our special packaging. Their needs are met by our bags but this can make acclimation challenging for some reefers. Being prepared with small containers and small bags of different shape and/or size, plastic pipettes and scissors to cut the bags open and the tips off a pipette if that works for you better. Using a pipette is not necessarily recommended unless this kind of thing is done every day. Practicing a couple times with just water in the pipette to get the technique down is helpful. The water can all drip out before you are ready if the technique is not coordinated. (2ml pipettes used to measure and dose some tank additives are way too small of an inside diameter. Do not use one thats been used to dose iodine, coral dips, remedies or soap products. Be sure its clean, free from contaminates other than a few fresh drops of tank water if a pipette is used.) Use the pipette to blow a stream of water under the Berghia to dislodge it from the bag before using a pipette to pick it up and be sure the opening is large enough. If the Berghia is hanging on tight and this is not done right, its possible to suck a number of the cerata right off their bodies. They are not so delicate once in the reef where they belong so there is no sense in adding much of this to shipping stress if it can be avoided. Be careful when transferring. The pipette can be slightly pumped to get them out in a safe place on a rock so long as you are agile enough and the Berghia doesn't attach to the inside of the pipette. If that happens, its a little more tricky to get them out. Think it all the way through so this experience is enjoyable.

Shut ALL power heads off while you insert them into your reef! Berghia are nearly wieghtless so getting them under the water surface is the first step to think through. Use a plastic spoon and get them to crawl on, lift from the bag and put down near the rocks where aiptasia are. (NOT on the sand bed) Berghia are very light and if they were on the sand could be swept into the water column by the slightest current swirl or rising Nassarius snail so they normally will not look for cover on the sand. Aiptasia normally don't reside on sand beds either and Berghia instinctively know this. You can also use a pipette as mentioned in the previous paragraph, with a large enough opening or invent some method of your own, just take your time and don't slide or roll them. Be gentle so you don't knock off a lot of their cerata. Once you have one on the spoon, if you roll the Berghia with the spoon, they shed the cerata appendages like a porcupine. Its their protection. However, if you do knock a few off, they will grow back. Introduce them high up in the reef and at the opposite end from your overflow. Put ALL of them in one place in each tank that you purchased some for. A synergistic effect is realized in the colonies, so they should not be scattered about randomly. The best place is far away from your overflow and on a rock near a dark spot where they can be in the shade and hide in the rock or under a coral. Normally Berghia will not go over the overflow because they do hang on very well. If you use a rock right against the overflow to establish the colony, then one may wander while searching for aiptasia or the eggs may hatch and too many larva will go over the overflow. Its best to establish the first colony away from the overflow, high up in the rocks as possible and under a protecting, shading coral. Since they work best in colonies, the faster results will be had by keeping the entire group together. Even this way, you must have patience. When placing in tank be sure you do not go through the same motions as when feeding the fish to avoid a feeding frenzy with the fish. A tang in motion will just swallow this before it realizes they sting and you will lose the Berghia if that happens. DO NOT JUST DROP THEM INTO YOUR TANK! Many fish will pick them up and spit them out several times until they get a good sting on the lips. When Berghia are rolled up and agitated like that and sting, they will shed their cerata appendages to keep stinging the attacker and distract it so they can get away. However, your Berghia may get injured in the process beyond repair. Some fish that just gulp food down at feeding time like large tangs, may just swallow the Berghia thinking its food. A little extra care is prudent to insure their success considering their rarity and cost. If you happen to accidently drop a Berghia into an aiptasia, don't worry about it. It has been reported that aiptasia eat Berghia, but, this is simply just not true from what we have seen for the 12mm ones and larger. Even if it looks like they were engulfed by the aiptasia, the Berghia will work it out and get away, shake it off then sometimes turn around within a minute and eat the aipatasia that stung it. Just in case we wouldn't do it on purpose unless you have a Berghia to spare and want to watch the show. Don't use a huge aiptasia because sheer size may win on occassion. We've dropped more than one into an aiptasia and worried over it because of false reports that aiptasia eat nudibranches. Its just simply not an absolute fact, at least once the Berghia get to the size of these egg laying young. (Perhaps that author was referring to smaller young between one millimeter to up to 10mm but he doesn't refer to the Berghia size in the claim.) Perhaps it could happen, we've just not been able to duplicate it in any case. If you do want to try it for the show, keep just 1 nudibranch in a small jar for a couple days and feed it well to be sure its fully recovered from shipping stress. For the Berghia in your tank, once they have a good hold and are crawling around, be sure the rock where you placed them is not in the blast area of a power head. If so, leave that power head off or reposition it. When the Berghia are well attached to a rock and crawling, it should be safe to turn power heads back on one at a time. Once crawling on the rocks comfortably in the tank, they should be safe. Authors claiming to know all about nudibranches say that there are not any predators of the Berghia nudibranch but this is an oversight by these authors. Nudibranchs have several predators and this is referred to here and in articles throughout our site. They could also get stepped on or dozed over by something like a large turbo, but, such things are accidental and not predatory in nature. Agile young Berghia are quite capable of slipping away into a small depression in the rock or even in the crack between a couple pieces of bubble algae by deflating a little. They will come out after dark to kill some aiptasia.

When Berghia are shipped they expell water much like their aiptasia prey, so they will appear much smaller than you have ever imagined and will be all white or nearly white colored. This is completely normal. We can not stress size changes enough so you are not in shock over how small they are at first look. They are very, very small animals anyway, even though full grown they do gain a lot of weight by comparison. Full grown adult Berghia can get up to 34 mm or perhaps a slight bit more (1 1/4 inches). This species of Berghia, common name popular in the aquarium trade is Berghia verruccicornis and correct scientific name as of 2005, Aeolidiella stephanieae does not get to be 2 inches long. This has been copied from an incorrect reference for this species and refers to a completely different species of nudibranch. After looking each day at these delicate appearing nudibranchs, it may look as if a large adult is 2 inches by comparison, but the true species does not grow to such a size. These nudibranches do not get nearly as large as the full grown adult wild caught Lettuce Slugs that we've often seen. Very large, old adult Berghia are not as effective as the young ones in your tank. It takes numerous Aiptasia to grow your Berghia large and our young adults are very active nudibranches in their quest to consume Aiptasia. With the young adults, all the eggs and activity of their growth spurts in your tank will benefit your system. As you begin acclimation, your Berghia will start to reinflate, then when you put them into your tank they will inflate even more. It may take them a few hours or up to the next day to inflate back to a larger size. Over the next day they should reinflate to their normal size of about 12mm or more. These Berghia hatched a couple of months ago and most people can not see them when they hatch due to their microscopic size. Since you've read this then you should be prepared because these animals are not full grown and are VERY small considering the amount of aiptasia they eat. They will inflate and deflate to get through narrow places or when they are sleeping. Often they sleep curled up in a little tight ball, making full use of their protective stinging cerata. They look like a little ball of quills when they are at rest. Their ability to inflate and deflate helps them hide as well as get into all the tight places aiptasia take hold. (The following jar method is not recommended for more than one Berghia or for the long term. Keeping Berghia in a jar has a 99% failure rate for most reef keepers because micro-mini marine ecosystems are extremely difficult to manage.) If you want to have some fun, keep just 1 of them in something like a rubbermaid or mason jar or any 4 inch jar (like jars Kent activated carbon comes in) with about a couple inches of water from your reef. Leave the top completely off the jar. (Rinse the jar then rinse with tank water to be sure its contaminate free.) Refill with fresh tank water and put a Berghia in the jar. Then pull some aiptasia off the rock with forceps and feed a couple to the Berghia. You will enjoy watching them locate the food and eat. Just dump the water every day and replace it with fresh. Keep this container floating in your refugium (to maintain temp and a photoperiod of 12 to 14 hours) and insure it won't tip over. You can do this for a week and watch 1 because once in your reef, they will disappear into your rocks soon after you turn them loose. You don't have to do this but it would be fun to watch. Put a little algae in this container to keep it sweet. A little hair algae works as will some of the others. If you use some dense algae, pull it apart some so you can see into it. The Berghia will try to hide in there. Once in your tank it takes a little while to establish the colony. It may be as much as 3 months before you start to see results. This is not true for everyone, but it depends on how many little aiptasia starts there are to keep them busy. Little by little you will see less and less aiptasia. Just let it work and as with all reef events, be patient. Your aiptasia population may just simply overwhelm the number you have, you might want to get some more to suppliment the original small colony. Fertile eggs hatch in about 12 days and your Berghia are laying fertile eggs now. Babies are very tiny so it can take near 2 to 3 months to realize some results if you have a very dense population of aiptasia.

These are young Berghia at least 12mm long unless you ordered another offered size. They are laying eggs and normally lay from 100 to 250 eggs in a coil at this age. They are very good hunters and very active at this age too.

Where did the Berghia go? They go down under and work from the bottom of a rock upwards. You simply must leave the tank alone and not create rock slides or move things around all the time after adding the Berghia. Moving rocks and creating rock slides will dislodge egg strands and may bury or injure the Berghia hanging out on the dark side of the rocks. It is normal to not see them after the first day or so. They may show themselves again after about a month if you look at first light or after the sun sets. Look and look, they are masters at camouflage so you can stare right at one and still not see it.

How long will it take? I have a 125 six feet long. It was loaded with aiptasia between many small rocks and under shells, inside corals, etc. I put 8 in the 125 and 3 in the refugium. In 4 months there was only 3 large aiptasia left and one little one that I could find. Over the next few weeks, those disappeared completely. I also had aiptasia in the sump and the Berghia babies got there as well. The sump is also clean now, in about 8 months. Basically this equates to closer to a year than just a few simple weeks. Patience is necessary. A picture of that tank is on this site and it does combine two natural predators. The CBB takes smaller Aiptasia from the exposed rocks but was not a complete solution to a coral tank with corals grown together. A CBB can not get down under so it is never a complete solution like the nudibranch is and that eventually spelled disaster for this tank. We're very thankful for the Berghia nudibranch in this case.

Do not try to keep them with Peppermint or Camel Shrimp. These Lysmata species eat nearly everything that lives and we are very sure Berghia will be no exception. Some people have no trouble with them, but that depends on the tank and it's inhabitants. Peppermints may be safe with leather corals and adult Peppermint shrimp will eat aiptasia as well as anything similar in structure. They will eventually kill Tubastrea and small BTA's that can not tolerate a tentacle being plucked each night as well as other things. There is an occassional one kept alone that can be fed and kept under control, but, it is not a safe thing to try as they can go after something without warning. Peppermints are nocturnal and very shy and this means witnessing the damage they do is not going to happen. Very often zooanthids and polyps will really extend once the Peppermint shrimp are removed if they are in a tank. Peppermint shrimp are easily caught along rocky jetties of the lower Texas and Florida coast, not from reef areas. They are not "reef safe" as some people seem to think. The sting of the Berghia would not even phase these predator shrimp. Cleaner Shrimp are okay as they do not bother the Berghia nudibranches at all. Old literature says there are no documented predators of the Berghia nudibranches but we have found this is not correct.

Other Invertibrate and Fish Predators: Sometimes people will keep large predator scavenger animals in their reefs that really don't belong in there just due to their mear relative size compared to the size of the tank enviroment. Extra large bottom scavengers that stay within their niche should not pose any competition or annoyance for the Berghia so long as they do stay in that niche most of the time. Sand sifter stars that normally are in the sand bed may climb the glass on occassion. Even though they are not in their niche climbing the glass, they should not pose any problem for the Berghia while clowning around for your entertainment. Occassionally live rock will contain medium and larger comb jellyfish. If the tentacles of a large comb jelly got tangled around a Berghia nudibranch, the nudibranch may lose a number of its cerata. It certainly can't be considered a very good thing as compatability goes in the small confines of a tank. We have not tested these nudibranches in tanks with large comb jellies directly although at least one of our customers does have a medium size comb jelly and has not reported any problems to their nudibranches. Larger species of fish of several species that pick at life on rocks are very likely to eat a nudibranch and it is likely to be the reason the nudibranch is primarily nocturnal. One fish recently reported to eat the Montipora nudibranch (looks exactly like a small Berghia) is the Radiant Wrasse (Halichoeres iridis). This wrasse may also eat Berghia if the Berghia are exposed. The fish hunts during the day time hours and Berghia hunt at night. Using the nocturnal Berghia nudibranches in such a tank may take a lot of thought and some skill to insure success especially when first inserting them into the system. In addition to Peppermint Shrimp, other invertibrates that may harm or negatively impact Berghia nudibranches include large brittle stars and large predator crabs possibly including the species of Sally Lightfoot that gets as large as your hand. There is also a small worm that thrives in some live rock that eats Berghia larva. Some fish and invertibrates that feed on the rocks can keep these under control. Having enough Berghia for sufficient eggs is required for some to survive in this case. Good tank mates generally include micro and small star species, Cleaner Shrimp and all the small reef safe crabs and ornamental shrimp species we normally keep in a community reef. They should be okay with Berghia nudibranches.

Using Kalk or Juice (or other) with Berghia: This is definitely NOT recommended. As the Berghia reproduce the little microscopic larva can be anywhere. Taking things into your own hands at this point can mean you kill some Berghia. The older Berghia are expecting to eat aiptasia not some animal that has a significantly altered pH or chemical content. If you do have a very large aiptasia thats stinging something of value, then use forceps to quickly grab the stalk of the aiptasia and snip off the tentacle ring. That will hold it back for a week perhaps and even if that does make it send out some lacerates at the base or spawn, you have Berghia in there and they are quite capable of handling all the aiptasia offspring.

What happens if and when all the aiptasia are gone? You go to dinner and celebrate a natural predator and that your reef is aiptasia free! The colony will disappear naturally over time. They can exist for a very long time in a reef tank when the aiptasia population dwindles. In very robust systems, they may reduce the colony size as the aiptasia decrease and increase again if or when the aiptasia increase. This can happen but, they can also eradicate all the aiptasia and then not exist in high enough numbers to find each other and mate again. Each closed system is different. It is quite likely if you get aiptasia again from somewhere, you will need a booster for the colony to get the Berghia population back up again. You can do this by adding a few more Berghia, if necessary.

Remember: There are occassional exceptions to rules of behavior in the animals we keep in our tanks. This is a dynamic hobby and there are animals that develop strange behavior patterns in some tanks. Normally, given the time, and adequate size to the Berghia colony, the Berghia nudibranches can take care of all the Aiptasia in a tank when they are applied correctly. But, since there are no absolutes in this hobby regarding other animals, this can work for you in aiptasia control or against you and your nudibranches. Please observe closely and take time to make accurate assessments if there is something that needs modified to help your Berghia to control the Aiptasia in your tank. We want you to be very successful so questions are welcome any time.

References/Pricing/Ordering | How To Kill Aiptasia | Acclimation Instructions
Track Shipment Site | Privacy | Email Us
The Berghia Point of View
Berghia Pictures

INSTAR

(Inland South Texas Aquaculture Reef)


Paypal Verified: service@berghia.net

Email Instar Berghia Net Support: service@berghia.net


Magnified Approximately x10